I look at Sophie again and offer a sheepish shrug. Back in the day, saunas were shared among inhabitants of a single neighborhood or apartment complex, but readily available hot running water rendered these public spaces obsolete. Lately, however, renewed interest in sharing the steam with strangers has spurred a sort of sauna renaissance in Helsinki. I was on a mission to explore as many of them as I could. Stepping from the cab into the snowy countryside we walk toward a friendly looking farmhouse — a comforting bit of civilization amidst the unfamiliar darkness. A blast of frosty air rushes past us into a primitive room that glows in the firelight.
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